Designing a Custom Handmade Engagement Ring
If you have ever visited our store in Kiama you will be familiar with our creations. What you may not know, is that the majority is creating custom jewellery pieces for clients. Those perfect, one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery that are unique to you and help mark a special moment in your life.
A good amount of our bespoke work is designing and creating custom engagement rings featuring diamond or coloured gemstones.
Investing in an engagement ring that you have not seen can be daunting. We try to make the process as simple and stress free as possible. In this article, we try to explain the steps and give you an understanding on how we will create you the perfect handmade engagement ring.
A 18ct rose gold engagement ring featuring a beautiful 1.01ct F/Vs2 cushion cut diamond.
Starting the Process of Creating a Custom Engagement Ring
When you have decided to go ahead and create a custom engagement ring it is important to have a budget in mind. All our custom made jewellery costs are broken down into precious metal, labour and diamond or gemstone costs. A clear budget allows us to know what can be allocated to the stone ensuring we find you the best gemstones available.
Other things that will helpful factors in creating a custom engagement ring are;
Allow Time - Time can play a key factor and the more time you have the better. If required, we can find you a gem at short notice. More time allows us to check a network of suppliers getting you more ‘bang for your buck’.
Ring size - Knowing your partner’s ring size is a valuable bit of information. The larger the ring the more gold or platinum is needed to make it. Some ways some of our clients get ring sizes of their partner include;
Borrow one of their rings for us to size
Talk to their mother or sibling
Measure it with a piece of string while they are asleep
If it isn’t exactly right don’t worry we can adjust the ring a little after you’ve popped the question.
Once you are ready our journey begins with a $500 deposit. We will begin the process of finding your perfect diamond or gemstone.
Choosing a Diamond
‘Diamonds are forever’ is a saying that has been synonymous with engagements since 1948. These days it is not unusual to see people stepping away from tradition and using coloured stones and gems in their engagement rings. These days, it's common to see engagement rings with gemstones like sapphire, emerald, tourmaline, tanzanite or a variety of others. No matter what gemstone you choose, be sure to do some research beforehand. Learn about the grading system and durability of the gem so you can select a high-quality gem.
The Four C’s of Diamond Grading
Diamonds are graded with the ‘Four Cs’ of carat, cut, colour and clarity which are used to determine their value. When sourcing a diamond for our clients we only buy diamonds that have GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certification. The GIA is a not-for-profit institute considered to be the world’s primary expert body on diamonds. The majority of Diamonds used in Sara Handmade Jewellery pieces have been awarded GIA certification.
A GIA certified diamond with the certificate.
Different Diamond Shapes
The first part to buying a diamond is choosing the shape you like. Do you want a round diamond or a fancy shape? All non-round diamonds are classed as ‘fancy shapes’ and can be far more affordable than the ever popular round.
In addition to choosing a stone, you will also need to choose a cut or the shape of the stone. Traditional shapes include;
Round, Oval, Emerald, Cushion, Pear, Radiant, Asscher and heart.
Round diamonds are the most popular diamond and command the highest price. Their brilliance is unmatched which is the reason that round diamonds are used in more jewellery than any other shape.
When working within a budget we look for diamonds with the most fire (or best dispersion of light). If there are any inclusions they should be white and not easily seen by the naked eye.
We always find several diamond options for our client’s so we can talk them through the best points of each diamond. If you are looking for a particular diamond, contact us and we’ll help you find it.
A selection of coloured gemstones from our collection including Ceylon Sapphire and Paraiba Tourmaline.
Choosing a Coloured Gemstone for an Engagement Ring
Coloured gems are a little bit different, the colour range is practically endless. We believe there is a coloured gemstone to suit every style and personality.
Ensuring the gemstone is free of inclusions, is well cut and has a good fire to it are key priorities. The sparkle of a well faceted gem will absolutely dazzle while a badly cut gem can trap light and look totally different. Depending on the gemstone you choose, it’s important to consider its hardness so you can wear it without fear of damaging the stone. The Mohs scale is used to determine the hardness of minerals and determine their scratch resistance. Sapphires and rubies are extremely durable with a score of 9 and are a fantastic choice in a coloured stone engagement ring.
Many other gemstones can also make great engagement rings however, we generally encourage people avoid gems with a hardness of lower than 7. Look at the table for some examples of the hardness and meanings of common gems.
| Mohs Scale # | Name | Birth Month | Meaning |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 | Diamond | April | Purity, Innocence, of Love & Fidelity. |
| 9 | Ruby | July | Nobility, Purity & Passion. |
| Sapphire | September | Integrity & Wisdom. | |
| 8.5 | Alexandrite | June or | Luck, Good Fortune & Love. |
| Chrysoberyl | - | Protection. | |
| 8 | Spinel | August or | Hope, Revitalization, Joy of being alive. |
| Topaz | November | High self Esteem & Good Fortune. | |
| 7.5 | Aquamarine | March | Calming, Soothing, Cleansing, trust & letting go. |
| 7-7.5 | Emerald | May | Truth & Love. |
| Tourmaline | October or | Reconciliation, Compassion, healing & friendship. | |
| 7 | Amethyst | February | Grounding, tranquility & Calm. |
| Ametrine | - | Balance, Relieve Tension & Creativity. | |
| Citrine | November | Wealth, Prosperity & Success. | |
| 6.5-7 | Garnet | January | Protection, Relieves Disease & Cure Depression. |
| Zircon | December or | Clearing toxins, Resilience & Heals madness. | |
| Peridot | August | Compassion, Good Health & Restful Sleep. | |
| Tanzanite | December | Psychic Powers, Communication. | |
| 6-6.5 | Opal | October | Self-worth, Self-esteem and Confidence. |
| 2.5 | Pearl | June | Wisdom, Serenity and Strength. |
Choosing the Metal for your Engagement Ring
Engagement and wedding rings nowadays can be made out of almost any metal. When choosing a metal, it is important to consider both style and functionality. How do you see yourself wearing it? Do you work with your hands? If so, you should look towards something stronger such as gold or platinum.
Gold from old sentimental jewellery being melted down to use in a new creation.
It is also important to choose a colour metal that you are comfortable with and will be happy to wear every day. It is also becoming more common to design a ring that features more than one metal. This can really help to elevate your design and get the most out of your gemstone. Some of the metals we happily work with to create your custom piece include;
Gold - Yellow, white & rose in both 9 and 18ct
Platinum - Extremely resistant to tarnishing
Titanium - Strong and won’t corrode
Zirconium - A silver grey metal
Tungsten - One of the toughest
Premium Silver - Palladium based
Designing Your Custom Handmade Engagement Ring
Your stone has arrived and it is now time to proceed with the design. There are even more styles of rings to choose from then there are diamond cuts or gems. If you have any ideas, photos or examples of jewellery you like it would be a good idea to bring them with you. Visual cues are a great way for explaining detail and ensuring you can communicate what you want clearly.
Styles and settings can vary immensely depending whether you want your rings style to be Modern, traditional or art deco. Would you like your centre stone set by claws or with a bezel? If you would like a claw setting do you prefer 4 or 6? See the example of some of the most popular setting styles.
We then look at other elements and details such as side stones, or smaller stones around the centre stone which is known as a halo. A gallery is carved out sections on the side of the ring that can add another dimension and help let in valuable light.
Working down we then look at the lower portion of the ring or the shank. It is important that the design of the engagement ring is comfortable for the wearer. We can always adjust it slightly as needed once you have popped the question.
Wedding bands will also be taken into consideration. Although it is too early for them, we want to make sure your engagement ring will sit nicely as a part of the future set.
Finalising the Custom Engagement Ring Design
Now that we have got a feel for your style and design ideas the concept sketches can start. A design is chosen or elements of it. The piece begins to evolve organically as we arrive to our final design. If required, we can create a 3D version for clients to give them a better idea of the finished product. Once you are satisfied, and only then we will get your approval and begin making your engagement ring.
A ring design done in 3d to show a client how the design would look.
Creating the Handmade Engagement Ring
The process of your engagement ring going from paper to reality begins as our skilled jeweller starts making each part of your ring. Starting with the shank, the metal is alloyed as required before being rolled out. Heating the gold to temperature a drawing mill is used to get it to the required length. The shank is then formed to the required length. The shank ends are fused together and it can then be hammered to size. The claws (or bezel) are cut out for the centre stone to sit in. The two are then soldered and joined together.
Setting the stones follows and this is one of the hardest parts of the creation. A skilful hand is needed to ensure gems aren’t cleaved along the way. Polishing is the final step and your piece is almost ready for you. Our last step is to have your piece independently valued, providing you with the certificate along with your GIA certification.
Although it is the ring you take away from a custom engagement ring creation, it is the journey and experience of creating it you will remember.
